How rebel brides are dressing down the runway

Goodbye Bollywood inspired bahus with bridal lehengas weighing a ton, and a heavier attitude to match. There’s a new bride in town who’s amping up the energy with a streak of rebellion and a swipe of mascara by making her own fashion statement. If the recent couture and bridal shows are anything to go by, bridal trends are in for an invigorating change this season as necklines get deeper, cholis get sexier and embroidered sneakers replace towering gold heels at the mandap.

Sexy and sporty emerged as the key winners in a number of collections on the runway, and speaking to designers revealed that they’re catering to a clientele that is fast changing. The confident and fashionable new age bride is wearing her mind on her strappy sleeve, and she’s not keen on pleasing a cousin thrice removed with her virginal display of the "ideal bride". The wedding celebration is not a show of pomp and dazzle for the extended family anymore; it’s a celebration for the young couple and they’re ready for it. Designers are learning to catch up too, and are wooing brides-to-be that are spirited and independent, and possessing a healthy doze of fashion aplomb.

This is not to say that fashion is eulogising the bride that nightmares are made of. She still reveres tradition and revels in the vintage, but she’d rather wear her mother’s bridal lehenga with a chic, contemporary twist than an overwhelming creation. Since her fashion choices are an extension of her personality, the entire bridal movement is veering towards a younger sensibility.

For starters, cocktail dresses are getting steamier, as the likes of Manish Malhotra opened his show with a seductive and plunging gown in a scarlet evening hue. Meanwhile, designer-duo Gauri and Nainika kept it suggestive with appliqué flowers placed strategically on their feminine tulle and mesh dresses and diaphanous gowns.

Stalwarts and veterans of the industry are recasting their classic image as well. Designer Tarun Tahiliani made the sari even younger this year with clinging lace draping the body with deep-cut blouses. Even duo Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla — who have been synonymous with elaborate and traditional craftsmanship for years – decided to reinvent themselves this time around with risqué concept blouses and dresses. The verdict is out — fabrics are getting lighter with every collection, embellishment more subtle, and the cuts more flattering to the figure than before.

As for the rocker-chic bride, there have been ample options on the runway to gladden her liberated heart. Designers Shantanu & Nikhil played with the toughgirl look with leather weaves and accents on everything from the bodice to the blouse, along with matching hand gloves and maang tikkas with chain detailing.

As a tribute to the adventurous side of women, Monisha Jaising dressed her showstopper Kriti Sanon in a grey jersey shirt or ganji with a matching lehenga and embroidered Converse shoes. Rows of fake-tattoos on her arms added to the non-conformist flavour of the season as she posed with self-assurance and visible candour.

It goes without saying that make-up choices are getting more specific to the bride’s personal choice too. Gone are the days of deep red and maroon lipstick, with layers of foundation, blusher and bindis. Real brides are experimenting with everything from bright neon pops to nude shades, smoky eyes to soft messy braids, and leaving their hair down in the face of conventional hair buns.

One might have thought that Sonam Kapoor’s first look for her flick Dolly Ki Doli was clever styling to catch attention, but the trend to dress down on the wedding day is only gaining momentum. It’s almost as though the desi spirit of bridal wear is reflecting the undercurrents of a feminist restructuring, as the individuality of the bride is celebrated even more so.