On the tusker trail in Rajaji National Park, chasing the story of Ganpati and friends

With an unforgettable but bleak memory of my first wild elephant sighting in 2021 in Ramnagar (Uttarakhand), I recently visited another jungle in the region, this time in Garhwal.

After less than a four-hour drive from Delhi, as the car rolled through the gates of the resort, near the Rajaji National Park and Haridwar, the staff served a chilled glass of lemongrass iced tea with a distinct scent of lemongrass in the air.

Upon a swift check-in at the reception, resembling a cosy jungle cottage with a deodar roof, my curious gaze was immediately drawn to a distant Ganpati statue, on a raised platform, framed by a lush thicket of lemongrass, adding an exotic touch to the wild ambience.

From the wooden roof, tiger photographs and motifs on doors, glass flowers and the colonial cottage-style reception, every detail had in it the harmonious coexistence of luxury and nature.

The jungle was everywhere at the Aalia Jungle Retreat & Spa!

In no time, I was led to my exquisite five-star tent, cocooned within a thicket of lemongrass, transporting me to the world of Kipling's short stories. The Saheb ambience prevailed with all sorts of comfort in the tent. The en-suite loo and shower area were equally remarkable.

Grasping the property

Following a sumptuous lunch at the restaurant and a well-deserved rest, it was time for an evening stroll with Basheer, 'the guy' of the 35-acre resort, a local from a village nearby. While watching the sun set between the towering chinaberry trees by the poolside, Basheer shared stories of the property and its surroundings, leaving me eager for more.

Igniting my excitement further, Basheer mentioned the possibility of elephant sightings in the neighbouring villages, making my heart race with anticipation. He quickly added that we had a jungle walk and birdwatching planned for the next morning.

My thrill was palpable for a date with the jungle!

Later, in an evening filled with spooky stories, monkey tales and succulent Junglee Maas, my mind was consumed by the thought of getting to see an elephant the next morning.

Into the 'wild'

After a kilometre into the trail flanked by jungles, 50 odd photos and learning fun stuff about the jungle and its inmates, Basheer suddenly paused and exclaimed, "We must turn back."

Before I could utter a word, he drew my attention to a muddy patch on the ground, he uttered, "Pugmarks." On the walk back he said he could verify the presence of a tusker around as he heard birds chirp a certain way.

On the last evening at Aalia, the team organised a sundowner by a riverbank nearby carpeted by Kashphool. While I sipped my tea, looking at the scenery, reminiscent of the tusker pair I had seen in Ramnagar, I felt like I had a bit of 'Apu and Durga' chasing trains in me, chasing the sight of an elephant.

Delectable food choices

Soon followed, the season's first bonfire, followed by the Dev Bhoomi Thaali, curated by Chef Ritesh Negi of the Claridges. The jhangora kheer was a comforting delight and so were bhatt ki churkani and pahadi chainsoo in the main course. Local food by a local chef, with a team of local boys. what more could one ask for? In fact, throughout the stay, all the food served was perfect with a lot of options to choose from.

Wish granted

Sitting in the misty chill, with the comforting heat from the bonfire, I gazed up at the starry sky and silently made a wish as I saw a shooting star fly past. My wish is fairly obvious to me.

On the walk back to my tent for a good night's sleep, Achoom, our wonderful host, asked me if I had seen the Ganpati statue as we passed by it. I responded with a yes, "Yeah, it's cool."

She revealed, "There is an elephant buried beneath the Ganpati."

"What?"

My surprise was evident, while she continued, "Long before the resort came up, an injured elephant had met its end at this very spot. Since it couldn't be relocated, the landowner and the Forest Department decided to bury him right here, with all the ritual and honour. Since then, the Ganpati statue has stood there."

As my time at Aalia was coming to an end, I knew I hadn't seen an actual elephant, but I had found a sense of closure. Somehow, I, kind of, got what I was looking for. The next morning, I left the resort with cherished memories, a wish made upon a shooting star, and Amplifier. Yes, he is the horse I rode on.

The Rajaji National Park, just a short drive from the resort, opens in mid-November, manager Kuldeep informed.

What does that mean?

More to be unveiled

My elephant chase will continue for a jungle safari, this time inside Rajaji, to meet Ganpati and his friends. A couple of glasses of the sweetest sweet lime juice, a deep tissue massage by Manoj and a couple of drinks beneath the peepal tree which looks like a perfect spot for a Lucky Ali-styled jam would be on top of my list. I promise I won't forget my camera back home.

The location: Aalia Jungle Retreat & Spa, Bandarjudh, Bhagwanpur, Uttarakhand.

Getting to Aalia: Saharanpur and Roorkee railway stations are a short drive, while Jolly Grant Airport, Dehradun is just 69 km from the property.

Tariff: Rs 12,000+ taxes a night.

Experiences: Horse riding, ATV riding, archery, sundowner, card and board games, birdwatching, nature walking, trekking, safari, book reading and a lot more.