Fashion designers are bringing back a silk Gandhi once swore by

Ever there was a choice between fashion and life, what should win? What value should one attach to an object, and how does one arrive at the conclusion?

Fashion has reached a unique stage where critics and consumers have made a clean mental distinction between a beautiful product and where it comes from. Backed by marketing and celebrity culture, the aspirational value of a fur bag, shahtoosh shawl (despite being banned), leather wallet or even a Banarasi silk sari has overshadowed the ethicality of its production.

Countless animals suffer for fashion to be exhibited in softly-lit stores. For instance, it takes around 10,000 silkworms to create one sari of Mulberry, tasar, or muga silk, wherein live cocoons are thrown into boiling water so that the silkworms die and don’t eat into the thread filament while exiting as moths (making such silks more expensive and "valuable").

Amidst the banter of social hobnobbers lamenting over animal rights and climate control, there are a few designers who are genuinely trying to contribute by working with eco-friendly fabrics and methods. One such fabric is the Eri silk from the Northeast, also known as Ahimsa silk or peace silk.

Unlike the other silks of India, it is procured by allowing the pupa to hatch and more importantly, live. The thread is shorter as a result, and considered the "poor person’s silk" but it is valuable for its elasticity, durability and thermal qualities that makes it warm in winter and cool in summer.

Quite naturally, the silk was promoted by Mahatma Gandhi, under his philosophy of not hurting living things/peaceful existence, non-violent Jain and Buddhist sects and even political figures like former first lady Janaki Venkataraman, former Indonesian president Megawati Sukarnoputri and the beautiful animal rights activist Amala Akkineni.

The material has even found its way to international collections like that of New York-based brand, Theory.

Today, a handful of Indian designers are turning to this wonderful fabric and experimenting with it to give it new form.

N&S GAIA by Sidharth Sinha is one such label that has consistently worked towards ethical conduct in fashion. Since 2014, Sinha has been working with weavers of Meghalaya — where Eri silk is cultivated and groomed — to introduce it into his collections.

In order to keep the price point of his garments in check (Eri silk can fetch up to Rs 1,400 per metre as compared to Rs 800 for other silks), the designer mixed cotton into it. He then had the yarn handspun in tie and dye and ombré patterns to make it as thin as possible for a draped effect.

According to Sinha, "The main issue with working in tribal regions is that the weavers are very afraid to try something new because they fear they will not get the benefit for their work. Someone needs to bring the trust back, to show them what is happening outside so that they can get more opportunities." 

In the same year, Delhi-duo Abraham & Thakore presented a collection of wild silk ensembles, and Eri figured in a trench coat, a tunic and a stitched sari among other garments. The range was well-received by the discerning audience with a well-honed aesthetic and philosophical background.

As David Abraham puts it, "It is a very specific client you’re talking to — one who understands and appreciates the story behind it. The production is very limited, not the easiest fabric to get, and not available in large numbers."

Label "Vinayak Couture" by Gautam and Asha Gupta has also crafted a special ahimsa silk line this season, and unlike their counterparts who use chemical softners, the designers used a natural process of keeping the fabric under sunlight so that the heat makes it softer.

They have incorporated ikat and polka dots patterns for saris and are looking to expand the range with lehengas and more.

"There is a lot of scope for experimenting in this category of silks, to make the fabric lighter and with more sheen. Also, the weavers need assurances of quantity and longevity for Eri silk to grow. A balance has to be maintained," shares Gautam.

Ahimsa silk has all the makings for becoming an "it" fabric for its non-violent, self-reliant and culturally-derived positioning, quite like khadi.

With the right impetus and research, it can pave the way for a more peaceful understanding of fashion.