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Hottest trends from the Paris Haute Couture Week 2017

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Radhika Bhalla
Radhika BhallaJul 06, 2017 | 22:18

Hottest trends from the Paris Haute Couture Week 2017

Assuming you’re as fit as an 18-year-old with the metabolic rate of an Etruscan shrew, the elaborate dresses at Paris Couture Week fall/winter will be the perfect inspiration for the upcoming season. Every major designer label turned paree into their personal runway for the 2017/18 collections, with dreamlike chiffons and sparkling sequins casting a spell on appreciating FROW suspects.

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A model presents a creation for Christian Dior.

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Lebanese-designer Elie Saab is who you’d turn to for regal flair while staying deliciously flirtatious, as diaphanous tulle and mousseline skirts work their magic. Feathers on shoulders, gold and coloured embroidery on the torso, nipped-in waists are what elegant evenings have been imagined by the couturier, with a confident playfulness that works in every season. The first female creative director at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri also showcased self-assured femininity, as her models walked down the open air courtyard at Les Invalides in georgette skirts and satin and velvet bustiers. Did we see hints of 40s and 50s fashion in the attenuated waists? Yes.

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Model Sara Sampaio presents a creation by Elie Saab.

But we also saw the sexy bohemia that defines millennial women, with casually draped wispy blouses and shorts peeping out from see-through skirts. The ease of throwing on a Dior dress and not being overshadowed by the name is what marked it’s 70th anniversary celebration at the show. Which is why Chanel’s heavy tweed coats with exaggerated curved sleeves and a high-waisted wedding dress — something an Italian Renaissance artist would have approved of in the 15th century — seemed so dated in the current context. Attention to detail like the ruffled halter neck and painterly flower appliqué on thigh-high boots were special, but they were the few accoutrements that stood out.

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A model presents a creation for Giorgio Armani. It was Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen who truly stretched the imagination as she placed her show smack in the middle of a futuristic setting. Her Aeriform collection presented waves of scientifically designed fabric — developed with artist and architect Philip Beesley — cascading down the bodies of models. The 18 pieces were made of a "feathery-light metal lace" with 3D printing that are a testament to Herpen’s refreshingly unique perspective. But of course, that isn’t for everyone. Classic sophistication has its place in the larger enterprise, and Giorgio Armani Privé championed the cause with figure-hugging gowns, sharply cut suits and tulle blouses with beadwork that acted as colourful tattoos on the torso. Overstated feather epaulets, metal woven fabric and black flowers jam-packed into an abstract, artistic scribble were the strength of the show.

Last updated: July 07, 2017 | 13:43
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