Why H&M, Zara, and others are stopping sourcing garments from Myanmar
The working conditions in the country have deteriorated since the coup in February 2021. Photo: dailyO
H&M, the world's second-largest fashion retailer, has made a significant decision to halt its sourcing of products from Myanmar, citing reports of labor abuses within the country's garment factories.
This move reflects a broader trend seen among major companies like Inditex (owner of Zara), Primark, and Marks & Spencer, who have also severed ties with suppliers in Myanmar, likely in response to mounting concerns over human rights violations and poor working conditions in the local garment industry.
Despite the fashion industry's notorious contributions to both environmental waste and labor rights violations, these companies appear to be taking steps, whether genuine or performative, in a positive direction by ending their partnerships with Myanmar.
The working conditions in Myanmar have taken a nosedive since the military coup in February 2021.
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The state of working conditions
The situation has worsened considerably post-coup. Here's what has unfolded:
- Multiple factories have permanently closed.
- Wages have witnessed a sharp decline.
- Working hours have experienced a noticeable increase.
- Instances of unjust firing among laborers have been reported.
For example, in the wake of the coup, H&M was investigating at least 20 allegations of labor abuse.
Beyond H&M
H&M's decision to sever retail ties with Myanmar is part of a broader movement in the industry.
For instance, in July 2023, Inditex, the parent company of the world's largest clothing retailer Zara, also announced its intention to halt all purchases from Myanmar.
This move followed active efforts by the international labor union IndustriALL, which passionately campaigned to convince companies to disengage from Myanmar.
Other brands that have withdrawn from Myanmar include Mango (August 2022), Primark (September 2022), and Marks & Spencer (October 2022).
Myanmar, where the garment sector plays a crucial role in employment, producing clothing and footwear for prominent Western brands, has been grappling with both political and humanitarian crises since the military junta seized control early in 2021.
The other side
While the decision of these companies to distance themselves from Myanmar is generally seen as a step in the right direction, it's important to recognize that it will also result in significant job losses and an increase in unemployment. The textile export industry is a vital source of income and employment for the country.
This impact will particularly affect the women of Myanmar, who comprise the majority of the workforce in these roles.
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